Desert tested: Protect Your Camper from Heat, Dust, and Rodents

DESERT TRUCK ESSENTIALS AND CAMPER PREP

I’ve used a variety of sun shades, ranging from gas station finds to a pricey Husky Liners shade that disintegrated after two years. Weather Tech sun shades are cumbersome — especially the windshield piece, which has to be rolled up every time — but they pop right into your windows and they’re well worth the money. If you want to make your own, a roll of Reflectix does the trick, and it can be secured with suction cups, magnets or adhesive-backed Velcro, though the latter can melt with time. I’ve also been happy with my Weather Tech rubber floor mats, as their channels make vacuuming rocks and dirt a cinch. Though not desert-specific, my recovery gear includes a shovel, an air compressor, a tire repair kit, traction boards, kinetic ropes, a battery charger and of course, extra water, food and a first aid kit.

How To Keep Dust Out: Sealing Your Truck Bed

Sealing your truck is the most important task before installing a camper, as truck beds have countless cracks. I used a 3M seam sealer on my first truck, and while it worked well, it took a while and I made a mess. (If you go this route, you’ll also need masking tape, rubber gloves, adhesion promoter, a silicone shaping tool and foam rubber to plug the larger holes.) In a bid to save time, I experimented with duct tape on the seams of my new truck. The perfect 90-degree stretches were easy, but as expected, the curves and corners were a challenge. The tape is holding up well, but over time I imagine it will break down and I’ll have to replace all of it.

And finally, before you bolt on a camper, take the time to seal your bedrails, too.

While an ESI tailgate seal is a great start, it only covers about half of the intrusion points for dirt, insects and rodents. (Yes, rodents. We’ll get to that in the next section.) To close the space between the truck bed and tailgate, Gapshield offers the perfect solution with a flap of rubber that shifts as you open and close your gate. Frost King foam rubber doesn’t have the best adhesive, but it is soft, malleable and perfect for filling random holes. However, the quarter-inch gap between the vertical edges of the tailgate and truck bed offers yet another way for dust to creep in, and I have yet to find a kit that plugs this particular area. I took a gamble with a random $10 bulb seal on Amazon, and it was just what I needed. The seal is squishy and it doesn’t interfere with the gate closing properly, yet it presses right up to the edge and keeps dirt out. 

1. The 0.39” Amazon bulb seal; 2. ESI tailgate seal; 3. Gapshield; 4. 0.75” Amazon bulb seal.

Two things to remember. First, when using any adhesive products, always clean the application area thoroughly and use an adhesion promoter. 3M and Vvivid make small, spongey wipes, which I find easier than constantly dabbing a cotton ball on a bottle of adhesion promoter. Second, while all of the aforementioned products are fantastic in limiting the intrusion of dust, you’ll never completely escape it.

How to Rodent-Proof Your Truck Camper

I once woke to the sound of a mouse running laps in my camper at 3 a.m., keyed up after consuming half of a Justin’s peanut butter cup. The candy had fallen out of a sealed bag and onto the floor of my pantry, melting during the heat of the day. It was just two feet from my tailgate, and the irresistible smell had lured the critter inside. In my subsequent Googling, I was shocked to learn that mice can squeeze through cracks just a quarter of an inch wide, and when I poked around the areas “covered” by my tailgate seal, I was even more surprised. I could stick four fingers all the way through the gap around the corner at the bottom of the tailgate, providing easy access for a determined mouse.

Despite cleaning and re-sealing my truck, I dealt with another mouse invasion two weeks later. Mouse urine and feces are an attractant, so I’m guessing there may have been some residue inside the bumper and tailgate, which hadn’t been blasted directly with soap and water. I began experimenting with a range of repellants, including natural options that smelled good (peppermint oil, cedar balls, cinnamon), those that did not (vinegar, cayenne pepper, garlic), chemical-laden packets and sprays, plus dryer sheets. Ultimately, I found peppermint oil bothered me the least, so I started sprinkling it on my bumper and tires, as rodents can climb tire treads to get into your vehicle. The Super Pacific X1's tight bulb seal construction gives you a significant head start here compared to most campers — but the truck bed itself remains the primary vulnerability.

Rodents are also notorious for chewing wiring and nesting in engine bays, and pack rats in the desert can be especially destructive. If you’re staying somewhere for a while, consider popping your hood at night to cool the engine and leave the area more exposed to light and noise. In addition to scented repellants, some folks swear by wrapping wires with chili pepper-infused rodent tape, and others have found success with ultrasonic devices and blinking Christmas lights.

Insects are another common annoyance, and if your lights are on at night, bugs always manage to find a way in. I’ve watched moths emerge from cracks around my tailgate, and I’ve been swarmed by midges and gnats, as they’re small enough to squeeze through screens. However, most insects are attracted to white and blue light, so the red mode in Super Pacific’s lighting kit can help keep them at bay.

Cleaning and Maintaining Your Camper in Desert Conditions

The X1 Camper's bulb seals get an A+ on preventing dust intrusion, but if enough fine dirt accumulates on the latches, they can become difficult to open. A quick wipe down and a small spritz of WD-40 dry lube can get them opening smoothly again.  When the latches really need a deep clean, I wipe them with a heavy-duty Swiffer dry cloth, blast them with compressed air and flush out any remaining dirt with a few squirts of water from a travel bidet. (If you’re not using one, you’re missing out.) I blast the area again with compressed air, and after a small spray of the dry lube, everything is as good as new. 

While I have a small hand vacuum that I use occasionally, I’ve found it’s far more efficient to open all of the windows and doors and blast the camper interior with a Milwaukee cordless leaf blower. Then I dust with a Swiffer cloth, followed by a damp cloth or Clorox wipe, and that’s usually good enough. I also keep an old towel on the tailgate and use that as a mat for dirty shoes, as traditional mats and rugs are too much of a hassle to wash every other week.

How to Keep Your Truck Camper Cool in Extreme Heat

Another consideration is selecting a high-quality battery — and designing a build that gives your electronics adequate ventilation. I chose a Redarc lithium system because it performs well in hot climates and allows me to monitor battery function and temperature via a smartphone app. I built a battery compartment with an open side and removable top portion for easy access, and the “closed” sides were constructed with Builtright molle panels, creating even more airflow. In early August, I drove from California to Arizona, and when the outside temperature hit 117 degrees Fahrenheit, I received a warning that my battery was overheating. I removed the top of the battery compartment, opened both X1 side doors and parked in the shade. 20 minutes later, the battery was back to a normal temperature and I was on the road. 

I previously had a 55-liter fridge that was always crammed after grocery runs, and I also wanted more space for pantry items like apples, bread and peanut butter, which can spoil quickly in the heat. I often keep food waste in my fridge until I can dispose of it properly, so that was another factor. I upgraded to a 74-liter ICECO fridge, and while it takes a while to get cold, it maintains its temperature well. The exterior latches also help reinforce the seal, keeping the contents cooler and conserving battery power. Before loading my fridge, I make sure beverages are pre-cooled if possible, further reducing energy drain. And depending on the contents of my fridge, I will raise its temperature to 45 degrees to keep both devices from struggling in the heat.

The bomb-proof X1 Camper was designed with all four seasons in mind — from the desert to mountains and back again, it's built for wild pursuits.

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